Preventing breakage is key for keeping your trees healthy in the winter. Here are a few key points to keep in mind when addressing breakage:

Temperature Fluctuation
Acclimation to temperatures much below freezing results from exposure to slowly falling temperatures and other factors. Plants that are dormant but not fully acclimated can be stressed or injured by a sudden, hard freeze. Rapid or extensive drops in temperature following mild autumn weather cause injury to woody plants. Extended periods of mild winter weather can de-acclimate plants, again making them vulnerable to injury from rapid temperature drops.

Low Temps
Some species or cultivars of trees and shrubs are injured if temperatures fall below a minimum tolerance level. Plants most likely to suffer winter injury are those that are marginally hardy for the area or those already weakened by previous stress. Species such as rhododendron, holly, and some magnolias may survive several mild winters in the Chicago region before a more typical winter causes injury. Flower buds are often the most susceptible. If plants with marginal hardiness are used, they should be planted in protected sites, such as courtyards or sheltered areas. In general, low temperatures are much less damaging than rapid and extensive variations in temperature.

Frost Cracks
Frost cracks, sometimes called radial shakes, appear as shallow to deep longitudinal cracks in the trunk of trees. They are most evident in winter at temperatures below 15°F. Frost cracks often, but not always, occur on the south or southwest sides of trees because this area experiences the greatest temperature fluctuations between day and night. A sudden drop in temperature causes the outer layer of wood to contract more rapidly than the inner layer, which results in a long vertical crack at weak points in the trunk. Once a frost crack occurs on a tree, it is likely to appear annually. Trees most susceptible to frost cracks include London plane, oak, Norway and red maple, horse chestnut, crabapple, walnut, linden, and willow.

Keep in mind that having trees on your property comes with a little bit of maintenance. With just a little maintenance, you can prevent most major pitfalls. You won’t have to be worried about trees causing property damage or even worse, personal injury. We look forward to discussing your tree maintenance needs. We have trained arborists in the Tri-Cities that are professional and that can answer any questions you have.

Making sure your trees have a good base of mulch is important. Mulch will keep moisture around the base of your tree as well as protect it. Here is a list of material that makes the best mulch:

Grass Clippings. Dry or compost before using. Mix with other materials to increase porosity and reduce matting. A source for some nitrogen but also higher alkalinity, which may compromise nutrition.

Hardwood Bark. Pine bark or shredded bark, can be purchased as bags of small or large chips. Long-lasting.

Hardwood Chips. Readily available and often free from municipal sources. If chips are not composted, apply a nitrogen fertilizer at a rate of 1/2 pound/100 square feet of chips. Composted Leaf Litter (leaf mold). A good source of nutrients but may increase weeds if not thoroughly composted.

Animal Manure. A good source of nutrients. Compost before applying or plant damage (burn) may result due to high salt content. Ideally, should be mixed with a coarse-textured material. Mushroom compost. A good source of nutrients when mixed with other materials. Source of large amounts of alkalinity and sometimes salts.

Peat Moss. Compacts easily due to fine texture and dries out quickly. Not recommended as a top dressing because water will not penetrate when dry.

Pine Boughs. This is a good covering for perennials in the winter.

Pine Needles. Not widely available and should be mixed with other materials unless soil acidity is desired.

Sawdust. Compost first or mix with a nitrogen source (manure and/or fertilizer) before applying. Oak sawdust helps acidify soil and is good for azaleas, rhododendrons, and blueberries. Do not use sawdust from treated lumber.

Sewage Sludge. A good source of nutrients. Composted sludge is available commercially (i.e., Milorganite or Nutricomp) and should be incorporated with soil or mixed with other composted material.

Shredded Leaves. Leaves are variable in texture and can be collected and shredded at home. Mix into the soil in the fall and allow to break down naturally during the winter for improved soil quality.

Straw. Coarse-textured so it persists a long time, but can blow away easily unless mixed with other materials. Generally not suitable as a landscape mulch, but provides winter protection and cover for grass seed.
Keep in mind that having trees on your property comes with a little bit of maintenance. With just a little maintenance, you can prevent most major pitfalls. You won’t have to be worried about trees causing property damage or even worse, personal injury. We look forward to discussing your tree maintenance needs. We have trained arborists in the Tri-Cities that are professional and that can answer any questions you have.

Our winters here in Kennewick can be either hit or miss. Sometimes they’re a little on the colder side and sometimes there can be a bit mild. But just to make sure you prepare for the harshest conditions, you will want to ensure your trees receive enough water going into the cold season.

Moisture is what will ensure your tree remains as disease free as possible. Here are a couple of guidelines for watering your trees:

Water only when air temperatures are above 40 degrees F. Apply water at mid-day so it will have time to soak in before possible freezing at night. A solid layer (persisting for more than a month) of ice on lawns can cause suffocation or result in matting of the grass.

Plants receiving reflected heat from buildings, walls and fences are more subject to damage. The low angle of winter sun makes this more likely on south or west exposures. Windy sites result in faster drying of sod and plants and require additional water. Lawns in warm exposures are prone to late winter mite damage. Water is the best treatment to prevent turf injury (see fact sheet 5.505, Clover and Other Mites of Turfgrass.)

Monitor weather conditions and water during extended dry periods without snow cover – one to two times per month.

Keep in mind that having trees on your property comes with a little bit of maintenance. With just a little maintenance, you can prevent most major pitfalls. You won’t have to be worried about trees causing property damage or even worse, personal injury. We look forward to discussing your tree maintenance needs. We have trained arborists in the Tri-Cities that are professional and that can answer any questions you have.