Continuing from part 2 of Tree Planting, we want to discuss the importance of planting your trees logically and smartly. Here is the continuation of those tips:
Fertilize Sparingly – Don’t put fertilizer into the planting hole; it may cause root injury. Next spring, fertilize young trees lightly.
Root stimulator solutions have negligible value. You can use them, but they aren’t necessary for transplant success.
Water Liberally – Water the soil at relatively low pressure, using the hose or a “bubbler.” Let the water, not your foot, settle the soil. If the soil settles below grade, add more backfill. When done, the planting area should be well-soaked and moist backfill should barely cover the top of the rootball. Watering frequency depends on the soil, not the calendar. Dig with a trowel on the edge of the planting area. Soil that feels moist and holds together when squeezed doesn’t need water. Overwatering drives air from the soil, causing root suffocation. Frequent, light watering promotes shallow root development. Mulching will reduce watering frequency.
Send your trees into winter with a good supply of moisture by watering them thoroughly in fall. Water during extended warm, dry periods of winter to prevent drought damage to roots. This is especially important for trees planted the previous year.
Prune When Needed – A newly planted tree needs only minimal pruning. Prune out only dead, diseased or injured branches. Research shows that transplanted trees establish quicker when as much foliage as possible remains. If you do prune, don’t use pruning compounds on pruning cuts.
In Conclusion
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